A spot of culture

Buses along the Riviera run fairly frequently so Omis and neighbouring attractions are within reach. Just beyond Split is the World Heritage city of Trogir, a fascinating mix of mediaeval, Renaissance and Venetian architecture, with waterside boulevards, pedestrian lane and the richly decorated cathedral. Locals call this the ‘museum town’ and you would need more than a day to discover all the treasures hidden within its walls.

A few miles away lay the extensive ruins of Salona, a Roman city which grew rich on the salt greatly appreciated by Emperor Diocletian. His palace is also a UNESCO site and the most popular tourist haunt in Split, still accessed through the Bronze Gate which once stood at the water’s edge. More than 200 buildings remain, converted over the centuries, and as you walk through the tunnel and back into the light, Roman arches and columns take your breath away. There’s no better way to absorb the past than to stop on the café-terrace at the heart of this ancient colonnaded square.

Sail to the islands

Croatia has more than 1,000 islands, an amazing sight as you prepare to land on your inward flight. Lush and green, long and thin, or perfectly circular, bordered by white cliffs and beaches, crisscrossed by tiny ribbons of road that seem to lead to nowhere. You could spend days sailing around this romantic seascape, but book a villa on the Riviera and you’ll have no problem finding a cruise to an island or two.

We set off for Hvar on a sailing boat as the last of the morning mist drifted across the mountains and dolphins frolicked in the bow wave. It took two relaxing hours to reach the fairytale town of Jelsa on the mountainous, pine-clad eastern shore. There were bike and donkey rides on the quay, fishing nets drying in the alleyways, waterside restaurants and colourful Venetian buildings dipping their toes in the sea. The fragrance of lavender lingered on the square and, now and then, the brightly-coloured parasols fluttered in the breeze.

A cruise to the islands often includes a fish picnic and ours was delicious. In these clean waters, seafood ranks among the best in Europe, served with salad or risotto, or grilled with herbs and a dash of olive oil.

We returned via Brac – the third largest island, famous for its stone which was used to build the White House in the US – and the picturesque resort of Bol clinging to the long broad spit of the Golden Cape, a favourite spot for windsurfers and sun worshippers. The pine-shaded promenade will take you there, dotted with wonderful views over glowing beaches and the turquoise waters of the Adriatic.